Culture Is Not Mass-Produced

The story behind two Zuni silversmiths and their efforts to market their jewelry in the face of non-Native opportunists who steal authentic designs to mass produce for a global market.

By Andrea Mahkee from Zuni High School in New Mexico

Driving for hours and hours around Gallup taking my grandparents to trading companies in order for them to make quick cash just to buy food for the week and pay one bill at a time. I've watched how much patience they have when it comes to selling their work. Most times they will make enough to pay three bills, but many other times they will leave empty-handed still holding on to their work. The disappointment in their faces is unmistakable as they walk out of these places with nothing, while other times they might come out with a victorious grin because they actually received money or supplies for jewelry. Their patience comes from doing this for years of hard work only to be given far less than what their work is worth. I can't miss noting their patience with people who will talk them into selling their pieces for way less than their asking price. I saw it all, even with my parents. 

My parents also made jewelry when me and my brother were little. Jobs in Zuni and close to home were rarely available and my parents needed a way to feed us. So, my dad knew what to do to make jewelry because his grandpa was prominent in the silversmith community. My dad taught my mom and they both created jewelry in order to feed us and help pay bills since we lived with my paternal grandmother then. It was a tough journey my parents went through in order to support me, my brother, and our family and for that, I have the deepest respect for silversmiths who continue their journey of creating authentic pieces just to have a roof over their head, clothes on their back, and food on the table.

Many of our A:shiwi people in the community create jewelry. They sell their work in pawn shops and certain businesses in Gallup and also in our village. Making and selling jewelry is their source of income. It is often used for food, bills, and necessities for their families. Some silversmiths sell their work on their own, while others depend upon pawn shops and trading companies. But their sources to sell are very limited and they don’t make much money for themselves because the person or business they sell to buy for far less than the jewelry's actual value in order to make a big profit for themselves from the artists’ work. Our Zuni people are always losing out on money because they may not have online access to sell their jewelry, or to our community center where a wide range of visitors can buy or learn more about the artist. In addition to the counterfeit jewelry out-selling authentic pieces, there are well known companies like the AL Zuni businesses that sell counterfeit jewelry for "discount" prices that out-sell the authentic pieces. 

According to KRQE Albuquerque reporter Larry Barker, "Con artists are flooding the Indian Jewelry Marketplace with cleverly disguised counterfeits, cheating consumers out of millions of dollars." A lot of people buy jewelry that are made in places like China that almost look authentic yet they're not. "You're talking about stealing people's livelihoods," say Santa Fe Gallery owner Mark Bahiti. "You're talking about stealing their cultural heritage; you're talking about deceiving vast swaths of the American public," Bahiti said (KRQE, Larry Barker). 

"The insult isn't just financial. "Our arts and crafts give us a really concrete way to stay connected to our culture and our history," says Navajo jeweler Liz Wallace. "All this fake stuff feels like a very deep personal attack." (Biggest Fake) Maraya Cornell 

Each time I would take my grandparents to sell their work, I often wondered if the business owners would check for authenticity because at that time, I did wonder if there were ever fakes being sold. I would ask my grandparents and they would say they would only look at the squash blossom necklaces only. Mostly because the authenticity of the piece is noticeable, and they do not want to risk losing their business. My grandparents did state that the business owners do not check thoroughly but you can feel the difference between a real squash blossom necklace and a counterfeit squash blossom necklace with the weight and the feel of the turquoise. This is a reoccurring problem that should raise awareness among our Native communities and expose businesses who sell fake jewelry from mass market producers who steal the ideas and designs from silversmiths who worked endlessly to create a unique piece. According to National Geographic reporter, Maraya Cornell, "Misrepresenting arts and crafts, including jewelry, for sale as Native made when they’re not is a federal crime under a law passed in 1935 called the Indian Arts and Crafts Act. The act provides for penalties of up to $250,000 and five years in jail for first time offenders, but until now it has rarely been enforced. Federal law also requires that “Indian-style” products imported into the United States be permanently marked with the country of origin. That law too has been widely flouted." This law was passed in 1935, yet many of my A:shiwi (Zuni) people lose out on money because their jewelry is sold way less than mass produced fake jewelry. 

As businesses continue the sale of fake jewelry, there may be some business owners who check the authenticity of the jewelry they may buy. This may occur in regard to their business. No one wants a lawsuit against them for selling fake jewelry. No one wants the bad image to their businesses.  According to KRQE Albuquerque reporter Larry Barker, "The mastermind behind this scheme was Albuquerque businessman Jawad Khalaf. Together with several co-conspirators, they orchestrated a criminal enterprise involving tens of millions of dollars of phony Native American art. Ground zero for the con game was the Philippines. Hidden behind massive gates on a nondescript street in Cebu City was the nerve center of the illicit operation, a Filipino sweatshop called Fashion Accessories 4 U." This article was recently posted on the KRQE website in 2021. 

I assume that many business owners are aware that counterfeit jewelry is on the radar and may be checking jewelry for authenticity to make sure they receive no punishments. But a problem is that many business owners rely on profit, therefore, they continue selling counterfeit jewelry to many people; most common buyers are tourists. Tourists do not understand the difference between the jewelry and believe that they are buying the original work of the silversmith.  A recommendation of mine to resolve the reoccurring issue is to create a law that states that all business owners who sell Native American arts and crafts should check for authenticity thoroughly and speak with the silversmith in order to confirm that they are, in fact, selling their original work and stop buying jewelry hfrom non-Native people.  Those who continue the distribution of counterfeit jewelry may be fined and held accountable through online websites as well as in-store businesses. Although there is an actual law for that, many do not take it seriously and there could be an online petition where people may sign their names to enforce strict laws against the distribution of counterfeit Native jewelry. Social media is one extremely useful way of raising awareness to a broader audience so that issues like these are not ignored when shared on all social media platforms. Many Native American social media influencers do take part in issues that involve our Indigenous people. 

This may not affect everyone, but it does affect those who create jewelry because it is their only source of income; it is the reason their children are fed and clothed. It is the reason they have a roof over their heads. Greed has poisoned the chance for Native artists to continue the growth of selling more of their original work. 

Zuni High School

Smith-Dual Credit

Dual Credit with NTU and ZHS

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